GOLDMUSKATELLER AND MERLOT
A plea for a dry Goldmuskateller
“The dearest friend I have is with the landlord in the cellar. He wears a wooden skirt and is called the Muskateller ”(Johann Baptist Fischart, * 1546 + 1591) - When the poet and humanist Johannes Fischart donated this two-liner to his favorite wine, there was the Muskateller (the“ gold ”was only given to him in the 19th century) in the South Tyrol area for almost one thousand six hundred years, more precisely since the conquest of ancient Rhaetia in 15 BC. Chr.
The muscat family with its many varieties is one of the oldest grape varieties; the vine, which probably comes from Asia Minor, was spread by the Romans in all wine-growing regions of their empire.
Edmund Mach, the founder of modern wine science in South Tyrol, wrote the Gelben Muskateller or Goldmuskateller a very good variety profile 120 years ago:
"As far as the bouquet is concerned, the quality of this grape variety is excellent ... the yellow muscatel has the well-known nutmeg taste to a very high degree and has the same even when the grape is not yet fully ripe."
That is why a bit of gold muscatel was and is often used as a cellar medicine to "scent up" white or white blends with a weak bouquet. Goldmuskateller fell into disrepute as a “peppy” sweet wine in the 1970s of mass tourism, when it was made so damn residual sweet in this country to appeal to the German taste in particular (“they put sugar in the salad - they want the wine even sweeter!").
It was not until the end of the 1980s that there was a qualitative reversal when the first high-quality GM “passiti” came out of our cellars. However, good to very good dry Goldmuskateller is still a rarity in South Tyrol. Some cellar masters curse the Goldmuskateller because it “makes only a few degrees” and claims the best growth zones.
The dry Goldmuskateller "Cora" is a refreshing white that spreads the typical moscato fragrance. Due to its excellent acid structure, it looks very vital and spicy. The elegant, fruity, surprisingly long finish is reminiscent of acacia honey and dried, bitter grapefruit peel.
Wine profile (Download)
Merlot – the grand french wine in the alps
The Bordeaux region is widely believed to be the homeland of Merlot, where this grape variety has been known since the 17th century and has been widely spread since the 18th century. Its name comes from a bird that loves to eat its young grapes: “Merlot” is the Bordelais expression for “little blackbird”. Whether the Merlot's naming has a poetical (the similarity of the grapes with the shimmering blue feathers of the blackbird) or rather sober (farmer's curses about the feathered grape thieves) background cannot be determined exactly but remains among the legends, anecdotes and stories of wine.
After the Italian unification, when the French had to leave, the new Italy was also celebrated by drinking French wine. Since then Merlot grapes have spread particularly in northern and central Italy. Where they both love and hate the Merlot: since Caesar's conquest of Gaul, Italy has suffered more defeats than victories against France, which might also be a reason for this constant love and hate relationship with the Merlot.
At the moment, Merlot is rather not being loved in Italy. Until ten years ago, the best South Tyrolean Merlots were regularly celebrated in the national wine press and guides - the tannin-tart basic tone, the sweet extract content, the deep color, the firm alpine style in the youth of the wine, the wonderfully soft and silky texture were praised.
For a few years now there has been a dead silence in this regard. The Merlot is “fuori moda” and you stand quite lonely in a Jurassic Parc as its lover and patron. But Merlot is still alive and luckily there are a couple of imperturbable cellar masters between Kurtatsch (zone of “Brenntal”), Terlan, Siebeneich and Unterrain, who inspire with French-peppery-tannin-robust and yet delicate-fruity Merlots.
The Merlot from Cora Hof delights your senses with gentle strength, good concentration and a broad, aromatic density: truffel as well as lots of wild berries, also chocolate, even tobacco and freshly roasted coffee beans. Unterrain is one of the beautiful micro zones for Merlot in South Tyrol.
Wine Profile (Download)